This SnapShot features four offerings from American southwest Hamilton Distillers, Whiskey Del Bac. While we have a proper review of their Dorado, we decided to take a rapid fire comparison of their line after one of our members visited the distillery in January 2020 and brought back a few bottles to share. Over the course of an evening, we went through each a few times and managed to write halfway-coherent notes somehow. The below is about the whiskies, but if you’d like to read our friend Bill’s impressions of his own visit to the distillery and subsequent favorite bottle, read it here. As always in this series, these are pretty off the cuff impressions. Onward!
Aperitif: Love the brief tasting notes on each bottle. Completely unpretentious yet not dumb. It’s not pandering. It walks the tightrope between serious tasting notes and good marketing, as they distill the complicated idea of complexities of flavor into something anyone with a half-decent palate should be able to recognize. They are accessible yet offer guidance. Nice to be able to buy some good sample bottles along with the full sized ones too.
Classic – There’s this frisson of smoke. The whiff of campfire on your clothes. It’s not assertive or overbearing, only there in the undertow. It does have a toasty finish. Here’s the big question: where does toasty end and smoky begin? Like a toasted marshmallow that’s just beginning to caramelize. That’s the element that pleases us the most here. There’s a little dried apricot to go along with the dominant candied orange on the nose and the palate. Inherently balanced in all its elements. It’s smooth and warming without burning, just delicious. It tastes like sunshine and joy. The smoothest of all the offerings.
Dorado – Campfire embers: tobacco + chocolate. There’s an element of exoticism here if you’re not from the American Southwest, because mesquite is so unique. It feels like a dive into the soul of what it takes to make a southwest whisky. Even after using Scottish distilling methods, bringing that home to be in relation to this country, this place, is so rewarding. We applaud Whiskey Del Bac for doing it, and not only did they try it, they’ve succeeded with it. Though it has the same alcohol strength as the Classic, it has a little more of a bite. Reminds us somewhat of the Balcones Single Malt, with a lovely stinger in there. You have to breathe deeply to get the full mesquite experience on the nose, brown sugar glazed bacon more than tobacco and chocolate now. Sweet, candied bacon.
2019 Winter Cask Strength 390 bottles; 55% abv – Damn. Like the Dorado on steroids. Nice at full strength. Add water, and dried apricot and candied orange explode, then turn into caramelized smoke. This is good. Oddly enough, with water, it grows delightfully chewy between some oil to the mouthfeel and the ramp up of flavor. We just want to sit with this one for a while. It is the Dorado with a swagger. A little added sweetness that is reminiscent of a bourbon cask finish. This is not a chaste embrace.
Distiller’s Cut 1350 bottles; 58.15% abv; matured in cognac casks – Pale gold text on the black label make actual literacy challenging, even before drinking. Please consult with your marketing department. The whiskey is almost too subtle, but not quite. Sometimes we like subtle. Very present on the nose. Like perfume from the morning smelt at the end of long day. There is oranges and cream on the nose with gentle hints of smoke. Then we’re back to the world of bacon and toffee. It has a heat. The kind of heat of chocolate with chilies or cayenne. It’s a buzzing, warm heat, not a rasping distraction. Adding water supercharges the nose and also unfortunately brings out the heat, adding some rough edges it didn’t need. This was perfectly drinkable at full strength. It would be fascinating to see it aged several years before adding the finish. The beauty of this whiskey is about how little smoke you can add here with it still being a noticeable and meaningful flavor profile element. Thank you for paying attention and knowing how to be subtle.
Conclusion: Whiskey Del Bac is American regional spirits at their best. It celebrates the American Southwest but is accessible to whisky drinkers around the world. It embraces mesquite as a major element of Southwest flora and connecting it to this place, so like peat is connected to Scotland. Through their efforts, you can experience it in an elegant and understated way. It’s not only an exotic curiosity, it’s legitimate American spirit making, just like early American whiskey makers used corn to turn their efforts into something unique as bourbon. It celebrates what is great about their place, and not as a gimmick. Let’s get the regional flavors out there, not only in grains, but everywhere in the process.
